Day 15: June 22, 2011 - Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top

Today we entered the North York Moors National Park and regained the higher ground of the these beautiful, windswept moors.  Unfortunately, we were in clouds and rain for most of the day, so we were deprived of some of the views.  It was a 12 mile walk to Clay Bank Top, where the path descends from the moor to cross a road which provides access to the village of Great Broughton.  We made arrangements with our hotel keeper to pick us up at Clay Bank Top and take us back the next morning, in order to avoid the steep two mile walk to the village.

The day began in Arncliffe Woods, as we walked on this forest road, traversing the hillside and gradually climbing to the top of Scarth Wood Moor. 

 Atop the moor, the C2C path joins an established hiking trail called the Cleveland Way.  That trail wanders 110 miles in North Yorkshire, about half in the moors and half along the coast.  We followed Cleveland Way signs all day today as the path climbed up and down across five ridges in the North York Moors National Park.  Here's a view of the path winding through birches at  the top of Scarth Wood Moor:

 This bench at the top of the moor has to have one of the best views in the world:

Here you can see the path as it winds across the moor.  It is flagged most of the way, so we did not have to cope with the boggy ground which made our crossing of Nine Standards Rigg so difficult last week.  A conservation notice informed us that these moors are maintained by "moorkeepers" whose job includes systematically burning the heather.  Apparently, this prompts new growth and provides habitat for grouse and other wildlife.  In the photo below you can see the strips of moor which have been burned and are regenerating:

Our weather held as far as Carlton Moor, our third ascent of the day, which has a nice summit with a large survey marker.  On a clear day it is possible to see the North Sea from here.  With clouds gathering in the distance, we saw a blue haze but couldn't really distinguish between land and sea.  You can see the patchwork of fields and woods which makes up the landscape of North Yorkshire in the background.

At the base of Carlton Moor there is a haven for tired hikers - the Lord Stones Cafe. They serve tea and beer and hot sandwiches.  Amazingly, there is a bust of Buddha in the kitchen, and, even more amazing, a real live peacock on the patio.  It was quite remarkable to watch this bird strutting around, showing off his plumage to a pea hen, who seemed mostly disinterested in the show.

 Well, we knew the bad weather would come eventually, and now it is fast approaching.  With the darkening of the sky and the chill in the wind, walking into this weather was both ominous and exciting.  We felt pretty exposed up on the moor, but there really wasn't any alternative so we zipped up our raingear and pushed on.

This boot on a signpost tells a story of equipment failure and utter frustration to any hiker.  The C2C path isn't a dangerous place, but it would be no fun to hike down from the moor in socks, especially in the rain.  I wonder what happened next?

The weather worsened as the clouds came down and rain fell steadily.  We climbed down and up another moor, unable to see much at all except the trail directly ahead.  On the last moor at Hasty Bank we passed the Wain Stones, a set of fang-like protuberances which jut out from the summit.  This is a great overlook and a favorite spot for a break or picnic.  Unfortunately, this is all we could see:

We were glad to slip-slide down from the moor and meet up with our ride to the Wainstones Hotel in Great Broughton.  A hot shower and clean clothes were most welcome.  We did feel a bit bad about the muddy mess we left behind, but since the hotel caters to hikers they must be used to it.  The forecast is for better weather tomorrow - let's hope so.